There are several things to consider when it comes to how many roofing screws per m2 you will need for a metal roofing installation.

The style of shingle, the pitch of the metal roof and whether or not you have an underlay installed will all affect how many nails, metal siding or metal roofing screws your metal roofing installation job requires. Good planning, accurate measurement, and the use of appropriate fasteners and screw patterns on a screw line will help you to avoid running short and wall cladding. You can usually refer to the manufacturer on how to install install roofing nails, lap screws and corrugated metal roofing and corrugated panels. There are general guidelines on the panel side lap and lineal feet and panel sidelap that apply to most shingle installations. For instance, most manufacturer recommendations state that three metal roof nails or metal screws should be used per starter strip along the eaves, screw line spacing and four per strip/ screw lines in the roof section of the metal siding. For example, If you have ridge vents installed, the number of nails or panel screw and lap screw required to secure it will depend on its size and where it is placed. In general, for example, if you're using a construction adhesive as an underlay along with your shingles, fewer fasteners are needed as strips can be overlapped. If you're using a self-adhesive underlay or if you're installing synthetic roofing, an increase in nails or roofing screws and screw lines may be required for fastening to attach sheets and prevent debris.

  • Roofing for timber battens 5 to 6 per sqm

  • Roofing for steel purlins 6 per sqm

What type of screw do I need for corrugated roofing?

For roofing applications, you will need a standard or shingle head lap screw. If you are using a pneumatic gun, make sure to use the proper fastener for your screw placement application.

Some roofing square screws are designed to have no head at all so that they can sit flush with your underlay/adhesive and not leave an exposed area through which water could potentially leak into your house. Other flashing screw count have a raised square head that is designed for "standing up" above the surface of the shingle or underlay. This design allows for easy screw placement and installation.

Self-tapping three-panel screws are also available for setting directly into metal or fibre cement roofs. Five-panel screws panels have a sharp tip that pierces through the surface (metal siding), steel, and then cuts its thread as you tighten it up into the roof decking making screw pattern panels. They require no fastened pre-drilling holes on most surfaces on the screw line, but they do leave a raised hole pattern on any surface they're installed onto, especially corrugated sheets.

If you're using self-drilling screws on a panel, many of the sidelap screws drill a larger frontage hole in wall cladding than the actual screw size. For this reason, it may be a good idea to pre-drill your holes before installing these sidelap screws.

For non-self-tapping screws, pre-drilling is fairly important as they will have difficulty penetrating most surfaces without breaking or dulling unless you use a drill bit that's slightly smaller than the screw diameter and larger than the nail length on wide panels and PBR panels.

What tools do I need to install roofing screws?

You will need a drill and a place screw extractor kit or an impact driver if you're installing self-tapping screws on an r panel. If you are using standard roofing nails and order metal, all you need is a hammer, place screws and nail punch to install the panel ends. The torque required to drive in most nails or screws for roofing is usually fairly low on the western rib per square footage which will require a manual screwdriver or drill for screws needed. Impact drivers are available for applications where additional force is necessary to install fasteners on the panel side lap on the vast majority. If you do not have sturdy ladders for roof installation, it's recommended that you hire professionals for the job.

What are timber battens?

Timber battens are industrial strips of wood that are usually about the same length as a row of shingles on the panel side lap. You will need several battens to complete your roof, depending on how wide it is. They are nailed in place along the eaves and joists at around 400-600mm intervals until you reach the end of the row. Timber battens are installed to provide a solid surface that will prevent your roof from sagging and keep flashing secure.

What types of underlay and adhesive do I need for roofing?

There are many different options available for your roof: felt: this is the cheapest option, but it's also the least durable; gravel boards: these absorb wind pressure and make your home more weather resistant; self-adhesive membrane (tar paper): this requires special nail guns to install properly; asphalt shingles: these require specific adhesives which work best with synthetic shingle installations; synthetic shingles: they're designed specifically to go on top of asphalt roofs, and they provide much better durability than regular asphalt products.

What types of metal purlins are available?

Metallic purlins can be flat or arched, depending on where they're placed within your roof. Flat ones are used for overhangs whereas arched ones provide added strength to the rafters. Using steel purlins instead of timber battens or other materials can save you money due to their lightweight and easy installation via fasteners.

What materials are roofing screws made from?

Roofing screws are made from a variety of metals, depending on the manufacturer. Some of them use stainless steel for extra durability and weather resistance. In most situations, however, you'll have to match your screws to the material they're being installed onto. For instance, if you're installing self-tapping roofing screws into metal roofs, Colorbond roofing or even fibre cement shingles, you will need a special type of screw that's specially designed for this purpose.

Are roofing nails and screws exposed?

To withstand heavy winds and other types of inclement weather conditions, exposed fasteners should only be used with certain types of low-pitched roofs such as flat or low sloped roofs. Exposed fasteners were originally designed for use on flat or low sloped roofs with thick layers of insulation to reduce the effects of thermal bridging.

What's a thermal bridge?

A thermal bridge occurs when heat is transferred from one material that has a high-temperature gradient to another that has a lower temperature gradient. In architectural terms, this usually means heat is transferred from inside your house to the roofing system and vice versa. Metal purlins are much more likely to have a very high-temperature gradient because they reflect most of the energy radiated from your home back into it during cold weather conditions. This can result in increased heating bills as well as ice dams forming around these points due to melting snow. For this problem to be resolved, you will need studs made from high-temperature materials where thermal bridges will be most likely to form. For information on roofing, and staying safe while repairs or work is being carried out, take a look at the WorkSafe ACT website. Check to see if any regulations apply to your local area.